The winemakers of the Wairarapa

Abstract

After nearly 75 years the wine industry in the Wairarapa is making a comeback. In just over a decade the number of winemakers in the Wairarpa has tripled from five to fifteen and more are expected. This thesis investigates how and why this occurred and also presents some of the major issues confronting the Wairarapa winemakers. Personal interviews with the winemakers were used to describe the development of the wine industry in the Wairarapa. As well this thesis being in the field of Social Science Research contains an extensive methodology chapter. The methodology presents the reasons for selecting the personal interviews over other research methods and highlights some of the issues that arose while conducting the research. The successful development of the Wairarapa vineyards and particularly those in the Martinborough district is based on the assistance and support shared amongst the winemakers. This comraderie is under threat because of the rift created by the Martinborough appellation. The debate between those "inside" and those "outside" the appellation is about whether the appellation is a unique grape growing area or a marketing tool. The debate continues but outside of France, the establishment of appellations has not been that successful. Although the scale of winemaking in the Wairarapa is small even by New Zealand standards, the desire to expand is strong. Nearly all of the vineyards expect to double their production within a short time frame. The wine industry in the Wairarpa is ripe for large scale expansion. The success of growing grapes in other Wairarapa areas as well as Martinborough may attract the attention of the large wine companies to establish in the region. In New Zealand the establishment of one of the three large companies in a region more or less guarantees the long term viability of the region for wine production. However there are impediments to this expected growth. In the Wairarapa especially around Martinborough there is increasing competition for land to be used either for grape growing or rural residential development. This has put pressure on land prices and may impede further vineyards from starting up. The Wairarapa vineyards are highly susceptible to the phylloxera aphid. Only one vineyard is totally planted on phylloxera resistant rootstock. If this pest arrives within the region in the next couple of years it would be a cause for major concern. There is also the on going debate of what grape varieties are best suited for the region, time and extensive trialling may tell. Most of the wine produced in the Wairarapa is aimed for the higher end of the wine market. Overseas demand for high quality New Zealand wines is increasing, which could be very beneficial for the growing Wairarapa wine industry. The Wairarapa wine industry is here to stay.