“Unique tales of home and nation”: How have our cookbooks changed over time, and what do they show of our culinary identity? A content analysis of New Zealand baking resources

Abstract

This selected annotated bibliography describes baking cookbooks published in print in New Zealand. A qualitative content analysis investigates how New Zealand baking recipes and cookbooks have evolved, and how our national culinary identity may be illustrated by them. Only cookbooks with 15 or fewer non-baking recipes were considered for selection, with the resulting titles published between circa 1910 and 2016. Detailed annotations describe chapter headings, advertisements, instructional sections, recipe comments, and ingredients of note. Selected recipe examples are given, in particular traditional ‘Kiwi’ dishes. Details of the physical object – the format, design, inclusion or lack of images – is discussed also. Manufacturer’s publications, wartime substitutions, microwave technology, and nostalgic stylings are all observed, and the growing influence of international flavours, food personalities, and health considerations are all apparent. Once small flimsy booklets, baking cookbooks are now usually large with hard covers, featuring individual recipe pages, accompanying colour photography, and commentary by the author. Alongside international dishes like Panforte and Madeleines and diet-specific options, the ubiquity of Anzac Biscuits, Afghans, Ginger Crunch, Pikelets, Louise Cake, Caramel Slice, Gingernuts, Belgium Biscuits and Pavlova throughout the decades demonstrates their part in our culinary identity.